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I have a Linksys WRT54GL wireless router (the old blue-and-black) whose underside indicates it is Version 2. I've noticed that, on wireless mode, if I am on a Skype call or in a Google Hangout, the wireless aspect will crash completely. In addition, if I am connected via an ethernet cord, my quality (that is, how my voice is received) tanks very quickly.

I suspect this is due, in part, to my internet connectivity itself (I'm on Comcast instead of Verizon FiOS, as I'd prefer) but I'd like to stop my wireless router's wireless capability from crashing.

I considered a firmware upgrade, but it looks to me as if I am upgraded.

linksys-local-ip

Short of manually running ethernet all over my house, I'm not sure what to do. How can I solve my wireless router's issues? If the answer is "buy a new router," then that's valid, as well, in my opinion.

Aarthi
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These routers are pretty bad about this, honestly. You could consider putting aftermarket firmware on it - Tomato and DD WRT both should work on this model, and while I can't promise they'll fix issues it certainly can't hurt to try, and you get a lot more functionality anyway.

If you're too gun-shy to try something like that, I would simply buy another router. Couldn't hurt to have wireless N capability anyway for future-proofing your network, and it's available fairly cheaply as I write this.

Shinrai
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    +1. I'd like to add that the "L" at the end of that product number stands for "Linux". It's the model that Linksys created specifically to make it easier for Linux hobbyists to play with DD-WRT/OpenWrt/Tomato and other Linux-based aftermarket third party / open source firmware distributions with. Leaving the factory firmware on the L model means @Aarthi paid more for the hobbyist version and didn't take advantage of it. – Spiff Mar 22 '12 at 18:13
  • @Spiff - I realized the difference, but it never clicked in my head until just now that the "L" meant "Linux". Duhhhh! >.< – Shinrai Mar 22 '12 at 18:15
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    I also second the idea of using this opportunity to go to N. However, beware that lots of cheap N stuff is "N150": non-MIMO, 2.4GHz-only "N in name only" crap. Try to get something simultaneous dual band, and at least 2x2:2 in both bands (may be called "300N + 300N" or "600N" by some vendors). //cc @Aarthi – Spiff Mar 22 '12 at 18:16
  • Yeah, if you're going to go for it, IMO don't cheap out, couldn't agree more. That said, budgets may vary (hence my 'available cheaply' - you don't HAVE to break the bank to do it) – Shinrai Mar 22 '12 at 18:23
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    And in case you don't think you can @aarthi, have a look at my SU blog post, its really not that hard – Ivo Flipse Mar 22 '12 at 18:42