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I am reproofing an Isotex™ coat which somebody had previously laundered and destroyed its waterproof properties. I don't know what grade the fabric is, but it is probably not the lowest as the coat has two sets of zippers protected by an overlapping storm flap.

The manufacturer's website care instructions don't give much guidance.

Do I really need to reproof my garment?
Reproofing your garment on a regular basis enhances its technical performance. Every time the jacket is washed as directed on the care label, it should also be re-proofed. Use either Regatta Wash-in Reproofer or Regatta spray-on Reproofer.

I decided to use the wash-in treatment, not a spray. The instruction on the bottle says

Shake well and pour 75ml into conditioner compartment of the washing machine. Wash garment following manufacturer's guidelines.

and some more about tumble-drying and ironing, which I didn't do. The coat was spun and is hanging to dry; I'll turn it inside out when the outside is dry.

I plan to give the coat a second proofing treatment, but

  • hand treat in a bucket
  • start with dry fabric
  • use just enough water plus reproofer to saturate the coat
  • drip dry
  • turn inside out to finish drying

Is this wrong, or am I overdoing this and need only to repeat the washing machine conditioner cycle? Or was the first step already enough?

I would appreciate any advice readers might have on the best course of action. I have read some of the previous questions:
I need to wash my waterproof coat without ruining the waterproofing
My Rab jacket is no longer water proof/resistant after wash

Weather Vane
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    The waterproof a jacket there are two steps. 1) Cleaning step 2) Waterproofing step. For both steps just follow the directions on the bottles. They are there for a reason. Meaning don't skip the tumble drying. It helps set the DWR. – noah Mar 08 '22 at 18:35
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    @noah thank you, I don't have a tumble dryer. The garment advises a light tumble or light iron. I have made a second treatment in a bucket by hand. I will iron it lightly, then repeat to use up the bottle, again followed by light ironing (when dry). – Weather Vane Mar 08 '22 at 18:46
  • I wouldn't iron. It won't be as even and if done at too high of a heat can easily ruin the garment. It's worth the $5 to go to a laundromat for an hour and tumble dry it. – noah Mar 08 '22 at 19:07
  • @noah and I won't be able to reach into all the crevices with an iron. The waterproofing will only be as good as the weakest spot. – Weather Vane Mar 08 '22 at 19:09
  • I also don't have a tumble dryer, but could make use of one for a one-off. Or I'd choose a different product. It might be worth asking the manufacturer if there's an alternative approach. I wonder how hot is needed, and whether that temperature could be obtained by hanging it up in a very small room with a fan heater on max (probably directed away from the coat, but maybe finishing off with a hairdryer directly at it) – Chris H Mar 22 '22 at 14:48
  • @ChrisH I chose the wash additive because I thought it would result in a more thorough and even treatment than a spray. Wash 1: by machine with rinse additive, hang coat to dry. Wash 2: a soak and rinse by hand with the additive and 2L water in a bucket, for better concentration, hang coat to dry. One dose remaining. I can tell by flicking water at the coat that it still isn't remotely waterproof. – Weather Vane Mar 22 '22 at 14:52
  • @WeatherVane I also like wash-in more (plus I never get a still enough day to spray outside and I'd rather not have the fumes in the house). I was thinking more of Nikwax TX Direct which is a wash-in treatment that specifically doesn't need cooking afterwards. I may do my old tent with it soon (though I don't think I've got enough left for that) – Chris H Mar 22 '22 at 14:54
  • @ChrisH thanks. Sadly I'll then have spent the £25 in total which the local dry cleaner quoted for a clean and reproofing :( – Weather Vane Mar 22 '22 at 14:59

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