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I'm receiving a $4,000 gift. I'm going to put $1,000 in an account.

Next - with this gift I can pay off a credit card with a 23% APR or I can make a 15% dent in a 26% APR credit card.

Do I pay off the 23% or make the dent in the 26%? Considering both are a high interest rate.

Patti Reiss
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    You've got some great answers below, try to build momentum with this, you can get out of debt, and you will love the feeling. Don't give in to any feelings of hopelessness if you hit setbacks, it's not a quick or easy thing, but so worth it. – Hart CO Sep 06 '17 at 14:32
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    Next step: Refinancing that debt under a lower interest rate. Paying off the $20,000 at minimum payment (about $600/month) will take 60 months. If you can get a loan for $20,000 under 10% interest, that duration drops to less than 40 months. – Chris Sep 06 '17 at 18:52
  • What's your credit score? Are you behind on any of your loans? Wage garnishing or collections? This might be a good opportunity to reach a negotiated settlement with your credit card company. It will damage your credit score but it might save you a lot of money. – ventsyv Sep 07 '17 at 14:44
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    As the OP. Let's be real. Many people have more than $19,500 on debt - it's just not as high an interest rate. I don't have lots of debt - I have lots of INTEREST. – Patti Reiss Sep 08 '17 at 02:24
  • @ventsyv - I'm in the 760's, and am totally current on everything - I'm not even at my limits on these two cards. – Patti Reiss Sep 08 '17 at 02:25
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    @PattiReiss Interest usually signals likelihood of repayment - households that get lower interest are rated by the bank as "likely to pay back", so they don't need to be compensated for risk. Someone who manages to get 50k debt on low interest is someone who has a high/steady stream of income anyways - for him the 50k is no life threatening amount. Someone with 50k debt on high interest signals that either i) he/she wasn't able to get a lower interest despite trying, and hence is a risky borrower who has trouble paying back, or ii) someone who didn't bother getting something at a lower.. [1/2] – FooBar Sep 08 '17 at 07:35
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    rate. Either of which is a red flag. You see, the interest is about more than just the actual additional money to be paid back. [2/2] – FooBar Sep 08 '17 at 07:35
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    @PattiReiss: "Let's be real"? The first step is admitting you have a problem. Right now, you're paying $5200/year for absolutely nothing. You're correct that many people have more debts. I still have $150000 of debts for example, but I used this money to buy a house though, and I only pay 2.1% APR. – Eric Duminil Sep 08 '17 at 10:55
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    @PattiReiss: How did you even accumulate this much debt at such a high rate? – Eric Duminil Sep 08 '17 at 10:56
  • @ericduminil - I had a mother with cancer and a dad who died unexpectedly, they had care needs and then there's a level of convenience you pay for when you aren't catering for yourself...and then sometimes you think oh I like that - I'd like to tell you that I never charge things under $100. So that meant never paying it off. Not that I used everything month - I just never caught back to zero. – Patti Reiss Sep 10 '17 at 12:06
  • @PattiReiss: Sorry about your loss and overall bad luck. Charging 26% APR for anything is criminal. It triples the capital in less than 5 year. Good luck! – Eric Duminil Sep 11 '17 at 09:25
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    If you call your credit card companies and ask them nicely, they'll usually bring your interest rate down to 16% or less. – Code Whisperer Sep 11 '17 at 11:02
  • Start a well balanced Cryptocoin Portfolio – Gewure Sep 11 '17 at 22:41
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    Currently, it looks like you're in the middle of Florida, saving that $1000 for a rainy day. That much debt at that high interest rate IS an emergency. Shop around, and try for a lower interest rate. If you can't, you're probably better off putting the $1000 extra towards the loan. – Scott Sep 12 '17 at 00:05
  • What the OP has to do is cancel the two cards, ie "cut them up". Every other issue is totally irrelevant. – Fattie Sep 12 '17 at 11:22
  • OP Here, I had not yet considered - the cost of the difference between the savings, and the $1,000 lowering the minimum payment on the larger debt to if an emergency arose after the next month - that there might bit a bit of breathing room. This was not a sprint to the final total and it won't be a sprint to the end. And yes, no card has been used in 8 weeks as of tomorrow. – Patti Reiss Sep 12 '17 at 16:22

12 Answers12

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Every $1,000 you use to pay off a 26% interest rate card saves you $260 / year.

Every $1,000 you use to pay off a 23% interest rate card saves you $230 / year.

Every $1,000 you put in a savings account earning ~0.5% interest earns you $5 / year.

Having cash on hand is good in case of emergencies, but typically if your debt is on high interest credit cards, you should consider paying off as much of it as possible. In your case you may want to keep only some small amount (maybe $500, maybe $1000, maybe $100) in cash for emergencies.

Paying off your high interest debt should be a top priority for you. You may want to look on this site for help with budgeting, also. Typically, being in debt to credit card companies is a sign of living beyond your means. It costs you a lot of money in the long run.

Grade 'Eh' Bacon
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    Thank you, I have been on a very tight budget for 2 months now- cut all subscription services and haven't used a card since July 20th. I know I cannot continue to do what I've done in the past. I also know I didn't accumulate it overnight and it won't disappear overnight either. – Patti Reiss Sep 06 '17 at 14:26
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    @PattiReiss It looks like this $4k is coming just in time to kickstart your debt repayment right when you're at your most enthusiastic. Great! Don't let this turn into an excuse to 'take it easy' for a few months, use it as motivation to pay everything off even sooner. Good luck! – Grade 'Eh' Bacon Sep 06 '17 at 14:27
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    Paying off the 23% card and adding the recovered payment into paying off the 26%'er probably makes more sense. – Robert Harvey Sep 06 '17 at 17:24
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    @RobertHarvey Paying off the 26% card reduces total interest cost, whereas paying off the 23% card first (because it has a much smaller balance) has a psychological benefit [as well as a possible benefit of having a $0 card where purchases could technically be made and paid off monthly without accruing interest, although given OP's habits she may want to consider whether that option is too tempting to get back into bad habits]. However, I have tried to remain agnostic over which card to pay off, because I think the bigger issue is the lost $ due to the planned $1000 in savings. – Grade 'Eh' Bacon Sep 06 '17 at 17:57
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    @Grade'Eh'Bacon Paying off the smaller 23% rate card also gives you a chance to just snip it in half and cancel that card, stopping you from further temptation to use it (I've seen people do that and it seems to work for some). – John Hamilton Sep 07 '17 at 07:28
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    If your line of credit is good, see if you can swap both your debts to a credit card that will balance transfer at 0% for some extended period. By consolidating your debt onto a card that is going to give you a bit of relief from interest payments you can make your payments make more of a dent in the debt. Using this cash you have might enable you to afford the transfer fees (1 to 3% usually) to get these debts onto a cheaper card. Of course, your credit rating would have to be really good to get a card whose limit can afford these debts. See also if your existing lender has any payment plan.. – Caius Jard Sep 07 '17 at 09:58
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    ..type things. Example, some of my cards will, for a flat fee, transfer some amount of the credit card debt to a monthly payment plan that is a much lower interest rate; it's kinda like "balance transferring to itself" or "allowing an existing cutomer to leverage a similar deal that a new customer gets in terms of balance transfer" but you then have to be able to keep up the monthly payments to the plan.. – Caius Jard Sep 07 '17 at 10:00
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    @CaiusJard - this comment is "too good to be a comment" - please consider deleting it, and write it as a full answer to the question. See the meta question Should answers be left in the comments? for more details. – JTP - Apologise to Monica Sep 09 '17 at 15:57
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    Paying off the 23% also reduces the minimum cash you need on hand every month to avoid defaulting on debt. If you're living month to month, but able to currently make your minimums, I'd argue that's more important to your long term financial health than saving interest. Does you no good to save a few hundred in interest if a $50 emergency 2 months from now causes you to default on one or both of your cards. – iheanyi Sep 11 '17 at 15:46
  • Trying to get a savings account that can cover a month or more (3 to 6 to be very comfortable safety net) is a much better option than worrying about the year end savings. You are already over extended on your debt (best action is to build savings, STOP taking on new debt and pay at least twice your minimum monthly payment until those cards are cleared.) – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 18:22
  • @MatthewWhited The OP mentions elsewhere that her living expenses are ~1.1k / month. Assuming 6 months (6.6k) of a cash emergency fund is saved prior to paying down the credit cards, that creates an additional ~6.6k*26%/12=$140 interest cost per month. Assuming that the debt is still paid off in 24 months, that's an extra net cost of 3.4k over the life of the debt. Paying 3.4k over 2 years, in order to have 6.6k in cash available, is a very expensive emergency fund. Some people may prefer this approach, but it is not without cost. – Grade 'Eh' Bacon Sep 11 '17 at 18:30
  • I did say a month or more. You can't build of savings by living well past paycheck to paycheck. – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 18:33
  • Not having an emergency fund will be much more costly if she loses her job or has some other short term problem such as car breaking down. (can be paid in cash instead of credit.) – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 18:34
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    @MatthewWhited An open credit line, like a credit card, constitutes a valid emergency fund. Putting any money away when you have 20+% debt AND available credit line (even if those are one product) is just plain crazy. It's putting the effect (having a fund) over it's reason (not taking unforeseen loans ) – Agent_L Sep 12 '17 at 16:27
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If it were me, I would pay off the 23%er. That is as long as you don't borrow anymore. Please consider "your hair on fire" and get that 26%er paid off as soon as possible.

From my calculations your big CC is sitting at 26% has a balance of 20K. Holy cow girl, what in the world? The goal here is to have that paid off in less than one year. Get another job, work more than you have in your life.

Others may disagree as it is more efficient to pay down the 26%er. However, if you pay it all of within the year the difference only comes to $260. If you gain momentum, which is important in changing your financial life, that $260 will be meaningless. With focus, intensity, and momentum you can get this mess cleaned up sooner than you think.

However, if you are going to continue to rack up credit card debt at these rates, it does not matter what you do.

JTP - Apologise to Monica
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Pete B.
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    The 20K estimate looks correct. That means $5200 in interest; the other card incurs $690 in interest. That's indeed emergency territory. – MSalters Sep 06 '17 at 13:35
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    I do know I need to make a change. Small steps in the past few months have gotten me to this point already. I know it wasn't smart, and I know I need to work at it. I'm trying to look long term and not just make it to the last day of the month anymore. – Patti Reiss Sep 06 '17 at 14:31
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    Another advantage to paying off the 23%er entirely is that it will be gone forever - meaning you can focus all future payments entirely on the 26% debt - though, admittedly, I'm not sure if the math would add up to saving you more in the long run. That depends on how much of the 23% payment you commit to your larger debt, and how long it takes to pay off. – Zibbobz Sep 06 '17 at 14:49
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    @Zibbobz Mathematically, paying off the higher interest debt first is always the fastest way to pay everything off. Of course, as Pete points out, because there is so much less on the 23% card, that there may be a worthwhile 'morale boost' to paying that one off first. – Grade 'Eh' Bacon Sep 06 '17 at 15:05
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    @PattiReiss you can do it, you can whip this. Budget and follow the process you will get there. This is coming from a reformed over spender. – Pete B. Sep 06 '17 at 15:11
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    There is also a psychological impact of having that account paid off. Its one less bill every month and one less line item on the budget. – Freiheit Sep 06 '17 at 16:06
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    Paying off the 23% and then sweating for getting over the 26% makes sense if you want to create a habit of making more money then you spend. It is a good financial health objective. Getting a single goal in front of you (the untouched 26% debt) and work out to gain those financial muscles. – Mindwin Remember Monica Sep 06 '17 at 16:18
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    Great answer. The momentum you mention has been described as "debt snowball", here's a related article on get-rich slowly. – Eric Duminil Sep 07 '17 at 08:34
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    @Grade'Eh'Bacon, it's not always. A typical minimum payment is 1% of principle + interest. Paying 1% of principle + interest toward the lower interest card in order then sending the remainder to the higher interest card may actually take longer than paying off one card entirely to commit the funds more fully to the higher interest card. It's definitely usually faster to favor higher interest debt in repayment plans, but not always because of required minimum payments. – quid Sep 07 '17 at 17:14
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    @quid I don't see how it could - at any given time if you are borrowing a total of X between the higher and lower interest cards, the more of X that's on the lower interest card, the better. – GS - Apologise to Monica Sep 09 '17 at 17:58
  • Paying off the 23% debt first can also make sense when you look at monthly minimum payments. By eliminating the monthly minimum on the 23%, you increased your margin for error/emergency by that amount. – iheanyi Sep 11 '17 at 15:43
  • @GaneshSittampalam I went back over my spreadsheets on this topic and it seems I did remember correctly that it wasn't always advantageous, but I incorrectly attributed it to the minimum payment, when my example sheet included card annual fees, in that scenario knocking out the higher annual fee card first in spite of the lower interest rate was the lowest cost way to go. My mistake! – quid Sep 11 '17 at 17:19
  • @iheanyi not if the minimum is (1% of principal) + interest - in that case a directing a payment to the highest interest card will always reduce the next minimum payment by the most. – GS - Apologise to Monica Sep 11 '17 at 18:37
  • @GaneshSittampalam yes, in cases where the minimum is that low, you're correct. – iheanyi Sep 12 '17 at 17:34
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The difference in interest is not a huge factor in your decision. It's about $2 per month.

Personally I would go ahead and knock one out since it's one less to worry about. Then I would cancel the account and cut that card up so you are not tempted to use it again.

To address the comments...

Cutting up the card is NOT the ultimate solution. The solution is to stop borrowing money... Get on a strict budget, live on less than what you bring home, and throw everything you can at this high-interest debt.

The destroying of the card is partly symbolic - it's a gesture to indicate that you're not going to use credit cards at all, or at least until they can be used responsibly, not paying a DIME of interest. It's analogous to a recovering alcoholic pouring out bottles of booze. Sure you can easily get more, but it's a commitment to changing your attitude and behavior.

Yes leaving the card open will reduce utilization and improve (or not hurt) credit score - but if the goal is to stop borrowing money and pay off the other card, then once that is achieved, your credit score will be significantly improved, and the cancelling of the first card will not matter. The card (really both cards) should never, ever be used again.

D Stanley
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  • I don't feel cancelling the card is the right way to go, but I agree with the overall conclusion to pay off the one. OP can use it as an opportunity to manage their money better, and still keep a revolving line of credit, not to mention the extra boost from the total credit limit as opposed to cancelling it. – Anoplexian Sep 06 '17 at 14:14
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    The card has a *23% interest rate*. The card should be cancelled, destroyed, and never thought of again. Any impact to credit score is meaningless. – D Stanley Sep 06 '17 at 14:27
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    Thank you, a part of me knew that this was a good idea. But then looking at an avalanche method over a snowball. I knew eventually I might need a little cash flow and then I'd be tempted to swipe. – Patti Reiss Sep 06 '17 at 14:27
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    @PattiReiss Precisely. It's too easy to just "swipe" and not have a grasp on how much you're spending. You need to get to a point where you don't need cards to manange you money effectively. Then you have the option of using them to handle cash flow, but ONLY if you never pay a dime of interest (and even then the use of cards should be minimal). – D Stanley Sep 06 '17 at 14:31
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    @DStanley Regardless, so long as it doesn't have a balance or annual fee, there is no benefit to cancelling the card, as the immediate drop in credit score due to increase in overall utilization will be relatively large. – Anoplexian Sep 06 '17 at 15:11
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    @Anoplexian The benefit it it can't be abused again. There's no "benefit" of pouring out bottles of booze unless you're an a alcoholic. (Not saying that the OP is "addicted" to debt or an abuser; just illustrating a point). The downside impact to credit score is minimal compared to the root problem, and will likely go away before the rest of the debt is paid off. – D Stanley Sep 06 '17 at 15:31
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    If the OP currently has 20K on a 26% credit card, they might find it hard to get a new credit card. That means it might well be sensible to keep the 23% card so that it can be used and paid off in full every month - which means no interest charges on that expenditure. This does require discipline though (which the OP has obviously lacked up till now). – Martin Bonner supports Monica Sep 06 '17 at 16:42
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    I'm in the Pay off the smaller card and cancel it camp. I know that there are theoretically benefits to keeping the card open and not using it or using it but paying it off every month but past behavior is a predictor of future behavior. The OP is ~25k in debt on high interest credit cards therefore keeping the card open and usable is likely to end up right back in the same spot with debt accumulating on it. As far as the OPs credit rating that really should matter as they shouldn't be doing anything that needs a good credit rating until they get their debt into better shape. – Evan Steinbrenner Sep 06 '17 at 16:42
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    @PattiReiss Reading your question and a couple comments, I have one word of caution: don't get caught in too many details trying to optimize every last detail. That can be disheartening in and of itself. Even if you make a sub-optimal choice somewhere, the important thing is to keep moving in the right direction. Remember your time and mental health are also valuable resources. ;) – jpmc26 Sep 09 '17 at 03:11
  • @jpmc26 - Exactly, I definitely don't want consider some of what is suggested - I'm not going to file for bankruptcy. I'd like to start where I am and move forward. I know it is not worth it right now to play a intro balance shuffle with the card I could pay off completely next month. – Patti Reiss Sep 10 '17 at 12:14
  • Do not cancel that card. Doing so will wreck your credit. – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 18:24
  • @MatthewWhited Cancelling one card will not wreck your credit. It might lower it temporarily due to a higher utilization, but the OP should strive to reduce utilization again by paying off the other card. By the time the other card is paid off and the OP is ready to responsibly use credit again, the effect of cancelling the card will be long gone. – D Stanley Sep 11 '17 at 18:30
  • having the open blanace on the one card will decerase her utilitzation. getting rid of the card will increase it. Seeing that she is over extedned this will reduce her credti score making it more difficult to get more credit in the future. – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 18:32
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    I would recommend the OP cut up the card right away, and then pay it off. – Codes with Hammer Sep 11 '17 at 18:43
  • @MatthewWhited I disagree, but it's not the main problem. Getting the debt paid down is the main goal. Closing the card will help keep the problem from getting worse, but it won't solve the problem. – D Stanley Sep 11 '17 at 19:01
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    Agreed... but destorying the card and laving the account open will help the credit score and prevent future spending (and other option is the ice block approach where you toss the CC into a container of water and freeze it solid in your freezer. difficult to use but avalible if really needed (if you can't control your spedning on your own) ... best way is to not use your credit cards ifyou dont have the cash to cover but that ship has sailed. – Matthew Whited Sep 11 '17 at 19:04
  • Destroying the 23% card is of no benefit when the 26% card remains open. – Agent_L Sep 12 '17 at 16:21
  • @Agent_L see my update - people are focusing on the destroying of the card and ignoring the real solution. – D Stanley Sep 12 '17 at 16:49
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With all due respect to The David, the $1000 is best put against 20%+ debt, no sitting in checking as part of some emergency fund.

I'd agree with the decision to pay off the lower rate card. Why? Because we can do the math, and can see the cost in doing so. Low enough that other factors come in, namely, a freed up card. That card can function as the emergency one in the short term. Long term, once these high rate cards are paid off, you'll build your proper emergency fund, but the cost is too high right now.

The $4000 is a nice start, but the most important thing is to get your budget under control. Only you can decide how much you can cut back, and go after this debt as if it were life or death.

JTP - Apologise to Monica
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7

I see some merit in the other answers, which are all based on the snowball method. However, I would like to present an alternative approach which would be the optimal way in case you have perfect self-control. (Given your amount of debt, most likely you currently do not have perfect self-control, but we will come to that.)

The first step is to think about what the minimum amount of emergency funds are that you need and to compare this number with your credit card limit. If your limits are such that your credit cards can still cover potential emergency expenses, use all of the 4000$ to repay the debt on the loan with the higher interest rate.

Some answer wrote that

Others may disagree as it is more efficient to pay down the 26%er. However, if you pay it all of within the year the difference only comes to $260.

This is bad advice because you will probably not pay back the loan within one year. Where would you miraculously obtain 20 000$ for that? Thus, paying back the higher interest loan will save you more money than just 260$.

Next, follow @Chris 's advice and refinance your debt under a lower rate. This is much more impactful than choosing the right loan to repay. Make sure to consult with different banks to get the best rate. Reducing your interest rate has utmost priority!

From your accumulated debt we can probably infer that you do not have perfect self-control and will be able to minimize your spending/maximize your debt repayments. Thus, you need to incentivize yourself to follow such behavior. A powerful way to do this is to have a family member or very close friend monitor your purchase and saving behavior. If you cannot control yourself, someone else must. It should rather be a a person you trust than the banks you owe money.

HRSE
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  • Why do you assume OP will be able to obtain a lower rate? 26% could be a reasonable rate for someone who has a lot of debt and maybe a poor credit history. – jwg Sep 07 '17 at 10:24
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    @jwg Worth finding out at least. According to a comment, OP is able to pay $660 a month on the debt and it looks like two thirds of that is interest. – JollyJoker Sep 07 '17 at 14:33
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If your credit is good, you should immediately attempt to refinance your high rate credit cards by transferring the balance to credit cards with lower interest rates.You might want to check at your local credit union, credit unions can offer great rates. Use the $4000 to pay off whatever is left on the high rate cards.

If your credit is bad, I suggest you call your credit card company and try to negotiate with them. If they consider you a risk they might settle your account for fraction of what you own if you can send payment immediately. Don't tell them you have money, just tell them your are trying to get your finances under control and see what they can offer you. This will damage your credit score but will get you out of depth much sooner and save you money in the long term. Also keep in mind that if they do settle, they'll close your account. That way, you leverage the $4000 and use it as a tool to get concessions from the bank.

ventsyv
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When paying off multiple debts there is a protocol that many support. Payoff your debts according to the snowball method.

The snowball method proposes that you make minimum payments on all debts except the smallest one. Payoff the smallest debt as quickly as possible. As smaller debts are paid off, that makes one less minimum payment you need to make, leaving you with more money to put against the next smallest debt.

So in your case, pay off the smaller debt completely, then follow up on the larger one by making regular payments at least equal to the sum of your two current minimum payments. You'll see immediate progress in tackling your debt and have one less minimum to worry about, which can serve as a little safety of it's own if you have a bad month.

As to saving the thousand dollars, that is pragmatic and prudent. It's not financially useful (you won't make any money in a savings account), but having cash on hand for emergencies and various other reasons is an important security for modern living.

As suggested in another answer, you can forgo saving this thousand and put it against debt now, because you will have a freed up credit card. Credit can certainly give you that same security. This is an alternative option, but not all emergencies will take a credit card. You typically can't make rent with your credit card, for example.

Good luck paying your debts and I hope you can soon enjoy the freedom of a debt free life.

6

Patti - I realize, of course, that you pose an either/or question. It seems the question closes the door on other potential solutions.

  • With a score of 760, you are a candidate for a refinancing of some kind. One option is the credit card shuffle, accepting a zero rate intro deal on a balance transfer. This would (a) save you a lot of interest (b) lower your utilization, thus keeping your score high.
  • Other refinance, perhaps better than above, is a consolidation loan through Prosper or Lending Club. A high credit rating customer can see a rate of 6-9%. This would give you a fixed payment and better light at tunnel end.
  • When running a budget so close to break-even, every bit helps. Your garage sale approach is great, wish you well on that. I'd suggest you also consider the side-gig. There are endless possibilities to raise money with a few spare hours a week. The hours can multiply up to 20/mo and even $10/hr will give you $200 to chip away at the debt or build the emergency fund.
JTP - Apologise to Monica
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    I had a friend who got a loan against his life insurance policy, and used that to pay off his credit card debt. But it was a personal one, not through his work, and I have no idea if it was term/life/whatever as I've never dealt with these things. – Joe Sep 09 '17 at 02:25
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    Term has no 'cash buildup' value, it was a whole life or other variation of insurance. Not recommended, as these are just bad insurance, although for the friend, the forced savings paid off, and to him, the policy "was there when he needed it." – JTP - Apologise to Monica Sep 12 '17 at 11:21
5

I'm going to suggest a slightly different approach. Most answers seem to suggest paying off the lower rate card to clear it. Some answers / comments also talk about emergency funds.

One risk of paying off a card is that the card issuer may choose to reduce your credit limit if they see you as high risk, to prevent you re-spending the money. If you don't trust yourself with the card then this could be a good thing (and remember you're always free to ask for a limit decrease).

But if you want access to emergency funds, then I would suggest paying half onto each card. That way if one card cuts you off, you have a chance of still having access to the other in an emergency.

JBentley
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This is the kind of scenario addressed by Reddit's /r/personalfinance Prime Directive, or "I have $X, what should I do with it?" It follows a fairly linear flowchart for personal spending beginning with a budget and essential costs. The gist of the flowchart is to cover your most immediate costs and risks first, while also maximizing your benefits.

  • Step 0: Budget & Essential bills
  • Step 1: Emergency fund
  • Step 2: Employer matching
  • Step 3: Debt payoff
  • Step 4: Retirement & education
  • Step 5: Max out retirement
  • Step 6: Other goals

It sounds like you would fall somewhere around steps 1 and 3. (Step 2 won't apply since this is not pretax income.) If you don't already have at least $1000 reserved in an emergency fund, that's a great place to start. After that, you'll want to use the rest to pay down your debt. Your credit card debt is very high interest and should be treated as a financial emergency. Besides the balance of your gift, you may want to throw whatever other funds you have saved beyond one month's expenses at this problem.

As far as which card, since you have multiple debts you're faced with the classic choice of which payoff method to use: snowball (lowest balance first) or avalanche (highest interest rate first). Avalanche is more financially optimal but less immediately gratifying. Personally, since your 26% APR debt is so large and so high interest, I would recommend focusing every available penny on that card until it is paid off, and then never use it again. Again, per the flowchart, that means using everything left over after steps 0-2 are fulfilled.

JTP - Apologise to Monica
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    I am a huge fan of "Grab the company match" but if OP doesnt have a plan to kill this debt, 26% interest wipes out a dollar for dollar match in 3-4 years. OP doesn't state the long term plan to kill all this debt. – JTP - Apologise to Monica Sep 06 '17 at 15:23
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    Hi as the OP - I bring home $2k a month. I have living expenses of 1076 ... following the 50/30/20 plan - I'm almost at target! My debt payments a month equal 660 - which leaves me about 250 for groceries- gas- light bulbs - my consumables. I've worked the last 7 weeks very very hard to stay within that $250. My current goal is not overdraft at the end of this month. I'd like to give an extra $5.00. Somewhere by October. I have submitted my resume to two PT jobs and have some garage items posted on letgo. I am working at this. – Patti Reiss Sep 06 '17 at 15:53
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    @PattiReiss I know nothing about personal finance that would be useful to you, but I would just like to wish you the best of luck. You can do this :) – Alexander Sep 07 '17 at 04:08
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    @PattiReiss you seem to know exactly what your income is and what your spendings are. You're definitely on the right track! – Stephan Bijzitter Sep 08 '17 at 11:01
  • @PattiReiss If those two PT jobs don't fall through and you can swing it, consider the gig economy like Uber, Lyft, Doordash if those companies are available where you live. Keep in mind it's more of a crutch as you don't pay taxes on the earnings so down the road IRS will ask you to pay it. – HarrisonT Sep 14 '17 at 07:35
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If we're including psychological considerations, then the question becomes much more complicated: will having a higher available credit increase the temptation to spend? Will eliminating 100% of a small debt provide more positive reinforcement than paying off 15% of a larger debt? Etc.

If we're looking at the pure financial impact, the question is simpler. The only advantage I see to prioritizing the lower interest card is the float: when you buy something on a credit card, interest is often calculated for that purchase starting at the beginning of the next billing cycle, rather than immediately from the purchase date. I'm not clear on what policies credit card companies have on giving float for credit cards with a carried balance, so you should look into what your card's policy is.

Other than than, paying off the higher interest rate card is better than paying off the lower interest rate. On top of that, you should look into whether you qualify for any of the following options (presented from best to worst):

  1. Get a new card with an 0% introductory rate and 0% transfer rate.
  2. Get a new card with an 0% introductory rate.
  3. Refinance through something other than a credit card (home equity, car loan, personal loan, etc.) Even a 10% loan would be better than what you have now.
  4. Transfer the balance to a new card with a rate below 20%.
  5. Negotiate with your credit card companies. Think of it this way: no matter what, you're going to be paying a bunch of interest. See if you can get them to compete to be the one getting that money. If you pay $4000 towards the high interest card, they're losing $830 in interest per year, and that's not including compounding. They could very well be willing to lower your rate to keep that from happening, especially with the threat of one of the other options I've presented.
  6. Transfer your balance from the high interest card to the low(er) interest rate one. There's usually a 3% transfer fee, but after a year you'll save more than that in interest. You can also try negotiating with your credit card company regarding reducing or waiving the fee (again, make them compete for your business).
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I like the answers others gave, if it's some substantial debt you definitely could go the bankruptcy route but it damages your future, also it's morally unethical to borrow all that money and not intend to pay.

Second, if you can pay off the entire balance and clear out the 23% interest than I'd do that first. One less bill to concern yourself with.

Now let's say you've been making $100 payments monthly on each card (my assumption for this examples sale) now instead of paying $100 to the remaining cards balance each month and saving the other $100, pay $200 against the remaining credit cards balance. By not taking home any money this way you are tackling the liability that is costing you money every month.

Unless you have a great investment opportunity on that remaining $1000 or haven't created much of an emergency fund yet, I'd consider putting more of that money towards the debt.

Gaining 0.01% on savings interest still means you're eating 25.99% in debt monthly.

If you're able to I'd venture out to open a zero interest card and do a balance transfer over to that new card, there will be a minimal transfer fee but you may get some cash back out of it and also that zero interest for a year would help hold off more interest accruing while you're tackling the balance.

HarrisonT
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  • It has nothing to do with ethics, its illegal to borrow money that you don't intend to pay, that's fraud. There are plenty of legitimate bankruptcies and money is lent at a cost that takes in to account default and charge-off risk. The size of the debt is not the qualifier for bankruptcy, the debt needs to be insurmountable relative to income and projected future income. – quid Sep 13 '17 at 23:58
  • I'm assuming OP didn't intentionally borrow it to declare bankruptcy. But if they're not able to pay than that might be there only way out. – HarrisonT Sep 14 '17 at 00:00
  • when I read if it's some substantial debt you definitely could go the bankruptcy route but it damages your future, also it's morally unethical to borrow all that money and not intend to pay. seems like an assumption this money was borrowed without the intent to pay. – quid Sep 14 '17 at 00:04
  • I see your assumption. – HarrisonT Sep 14 '17 at 00:06