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I'm planning to buy a 2- or 3-year old car in cash. I expect to pay around $15k. I'll probably buy through a dealer because I can't find any private sellers in my area with the type of car I'm looking for.

My question is whether and how I could use a cash purchase to my advantage. I have bought several houses in cash and know that that is a big advantage because it makes for a speedier transaction, and one that is less likely to fall through unexpectedly. Therefore, house sellers are more inclined to work with cash buyers.

But when it comes to buying cars from a dealer, I have read that paying in cash can actually put you at a disadvantage, because dealers want to be able to sell you a car loan on top of the car.

Is that true? If so, how could I mitigate the issue? Could I say that I am going to buy with a loan, and do the financing through the dealer, then back out of that promise and say I'll pay in cash once I have settled on a price for the car?

Relatedly, does it matter to dealers if I can say that I can buy the car immediately, without them having to wait on my loan processing or worry I won't get approved? I'm guessing that these things are not a big deal to them because my sense is that a car loan (unlike a mortgage for a house) doesn't usually take more than a few days to process, and most people are able to get one unless they have exceptionally bad credit.

Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

painter48179
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    Is this US? Please add the appropriate tag –  Jun 14 '19 at 07:26
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    Locale might be important. I have recently spoken to a dealer that offered a rebate for cash purchases (not USA). But that is a new car, and I mentioned that I am also looking at a competitor's model. – frIT Jun 14 '19 at 09:24
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    Let's assume USA. If you can buy a house cash, you are either not in Europe or don't need to worry about 2nd hand car purchases. – KlaymenDK Jun 14 '19 at 13:01

5 Answers5

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I have read that paying in cash can actually put you at a disadvantage, because dealers want to be able to sell you a car loan on top of the car.

Every time I've purchased a car, the purchase price is set and agreed upon before I step into the finance office (meaning they don't know if I'm going to finance or pay cash yet). With a fixed price, once you step into financing, it's the finance manager's job to make the dealership additional money above and beyond what the sales team accomplished. They do this by getting you into a profitable loan, and trying to add on warranties, service contracts, and upgrades. So you can first negotiate the price of the car with the sales team, and then potentially re-negotiate with the finance manager by accepting a loan that ultimately makes the dealer even more money.

When you go into finance, I'd just tell them you plan to pay in cash, but if if would be mutually beneficial for you to finance, you'll consider it. "Mutually beneficial" may translate into a lower purchase price, or perhaps they could throw in some service vouchers, tires, nice floor mats, etc.

TTT
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    But how can it ever really be mutually beneficial if the intention of the loan is to make more money for the seller? –  Jun 14 '19 at 07:27
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    @JanDoggen The dealership's purchase cost for the extra items will almost certainly be less than the price of those items for the customer if bought at the dealership, and it also may be less than the money the dealership makes from the customer choosing to take out financing to pay for the car. It would be a pretty narrow window within which this is the case, but there's nothing in principle that prevents such a window from existing. – user Jun 14 '19 at 08:47
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    But how can it ever really be mutually beneficial if the intention of the loan is to make more money for the seller? In terms of the benefit being a discount for financing, the seller makes their money when the paperwork is signed. There are very rarely any impacts to them based on what happens after that. The "mutually beneficial" aspect is beneficial for both the dealer and the customer. It's really the bank that loses out, since they're the ones paying the origination fee to the dealer (who is then presumably passing some of that on to you as a discount for taking out the loan). – dwizum Jun 14 '19 at 13:10
  • @JanDoggen - I meant mutually beneficial to both the dealer and the buyer compared to not financing. dwizum has a good explanation of how it works (the bank loses in that scenario). – TTT Jun 14 '19 at 17:55
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    You can always lump-sum pay the loan off in the first month. Then you might get freebies from the dealer, or a better sale price, plus you don't accrue any interest on the loan. Just make sure the loan doesn't come with an early pay-off fee or penalty. – SnakeDoc Jun 14 '19 at 18:49
  • Also, a good salesman will ask very early on into your "relationship" how you intend to finance the car. They're feeling you out... is it a lease, a loan, or a cash buyer. – SnakeDoc Jun 14 '19 at 18:52
  • @SnakeDoc - Agreed. If you check out the history of my answer you'll see I initially implied that you could use that to your advantage, but then I decided that the sales team likely wouldn't willingly take a hit with the assumption that the finance team will make up the difference. And if that assumption is correct, you can be honest with both sales and finance without needing to play any games. – TTT Jun 14 '19 at 21:27
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Keep It Simple without needing to deceive them.

  1. Negotiate a lower price by financing.
  2. Make sure that there's no prepayment penalty!!
  3. Pay off the car on the first due date.
RonJohn
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  • the % fees the bank charges you for taking the loan does not go away by paying off the car since it's borrowing fee / loan cost. You'd have to get a much better deal in order for it to make sense.
  • – Jonast92 Jun 13 '19 at 17:25
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    @TTT the opportunity to do #1 is based on the dealer getting a rebate for originating the loan. Manufacturer rebates for loans (i.e. you buy a Ford and finance with Ford Motor Credit) are typically done as limited-time promotions and can be significant (several thousand dollars). But local banks and credit unions are typically paying the dealer for origination too, although perhaps only $500 - $800. If you go in knowing that, and you finance, you can certainly ask for part of that rebate. The dealer will be more likely to give it to you as additional discount vs someone paying cash. – dwizum Jun 13 '19 at 19:11
  • I just recently bought a car with cash, and the insurance premiums were far, far lower vs. paying for insurance on a car with a bank lien (i.e., loan) against it. – Bort Jun 14 '19 at 12:27
  • When you pay a loan off on the first payment date, the lien is removed, and you're in an equivalent situation to having paid cash. That's the beauty of this approach. You get the potential benefits of a loan combined with the potential benefits of cash, without any of the downsides of either. – dwizum Jun 14 '19 at 13:07
  • @dwizum Is 'no penalty for prepayment' the same as 'all overpayments are applied to principal'? 'Penalty' implies an additional fee assessed on top of what you'd owe for the purpose of disincentivizing an early pay-off, whereas the bank simply collecting the total of all payments listed in your loan payment schedule, interest included though never accrued if you pay off the loan on day 1, seems dishonest of them and stupid on the part of the borrower, but not a 'penalty' per se. – Bort Jun 14 '19 at 13:28
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    In terms of payment application, literally paying a loan off is typically handled differently than an overpayment (in the sense that you send in more than one month's payment). Banks have payment logic to determine what to do with an overpayment, automatically. Whereas, in most cases, to pay the loan off, you'd request a payoff amount, and the bank would provide a payoff amount and a timeframe during which it's good. The amount would include interest accrued but not yet paid for. You're only responsible for interest accrued until you pay off the loan. They can't charge you for future interest. – dwizum Jun 14 '19 at 13:34
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    The catch is, some loan contracts will include a literal early payoff penalty. The contract may say something like, "if you pay this loan off within 6 months of origination, you owe us an extra $600 fee." That explicit early payoff penalty is what you want to check for, and avoid. Some banks do this as a way to protect the fact that they just paid the dealer a lump sum to originate the loan. – dwizum Jun 14 '19 at 13:36
  • Thanks for this insight... The first car I ever financed I paid off early, and since I was young and stupid, didn't request a loan payoff formally, and of course the bank pocketed a year of free interest and said nothing. – Bort Jun 14 '19 at 13:48